It sounds like everything is working correctly except that your top LED light is only flashing with the left turn signal and not the right turn signal.
If your center light is wired like the Thinline LED Trailer Tail Light # STL59RB with the White wire for Ground, the Black wire for the Tail/Running Lights, and the Red wire for a Turn Signal, it will only flash with whichever turn signal you have it wired to.
Attaching both the Right Turn/Stop (typically Green wire) and Left Turn/Stop... view full answer...
If I understand things correctly the indicator light on your Draw-Tite Activator # 5504 is now coming on, even with the trailer disconnected, when you have your flasher/hazard lights on. If this is the case then I would suspect that there is a corrosion issue in the truck's 7-way or within the wiring/plug leading to it. This could also explain why the trailer brakes engaged without you applying the brakes since corrosion can cause adjacent circuits to become bridged together; what happens... view full answer...
The black wire to your Draw-Tite Activator II Trailer Brake Controller 5500 carries +12V power to operate the controller and connects to the battery positive terminal through a circuit breaker. This wire should carry 12V at all times.
The red wire carries the brake light switch signal that tells the controller to generate an output signal for the trailer brakes. This red wire should carry a signal only when you press the brake pedal on the truck. It connects to the COLD side of the brake... view full answer...
I attached a picture that has a chart with all of the error codes for the Prodigy P2 part # 90885 that you referenced.
I am not sure what you mean by dashes on the display so hopefully the chart helps you.
Feel free to email back with pictures of the display if you need more help. view full answer...
In order to determine what is going on with your Hopkins Agility Brake Controller # HM47295, when you say it's lighting up, if you're not actually seeing the small red dot in the lower right hand corner of the unit that would indicate that there is an issue with the trailer hookup. If you're not seeing that dot, I would recommend cleaning off the 7 way connector on both your truck and the trailer and making sure it is free from dirt, debris and corrosion.
If you're seeing the small red... view full answer...
That lead is fused. Take a look in the power distribution box under the hood. There should be two blue maxi fuses that protect the power supply for the brake controller, and the 12-Volt accessory circuit to the trailer connector.
Your owners manual should be able to provide the specific fuse location. If the fuse is missing or blown, install or replace it.
If you should decide that you wish to wire the controller directly to 12-Volt power, I would recommend running a circuit directly... view full answer...
I would proceed by checking the trailer connections on the vehicle and trailer side for corrosion, which could be blocking the signal from the brake controller. The decimal lighting without a reading indicates no conntection to trailer brakes. When using the test light the bulb is supplying a complete circuit and load that the brake controller is recognizing and allowing power to be sent to the test light bulb.
Another good idea is to go over the brake controller instructions, see link,... view full answer...
What does the display read when you press the pedal? Does the same problem occur when you use the manual brake lever on the unit?
My contact at Draw-Tite recommends disconnecting the blue wire from the brake controller. If the display reads correctly when you disconnect the blue wire, then the issue might be that this wire is shorted, which should give the brake controller a read out of O L.
The other issue may be that the black power wire to the controller might not be connected firmly... view full answer...
I would start by using a circuit tester, item # PTW2993 if needed, to check the wiring going to and coming from the brake controller. There are 4 wires that will need to be checked.
White - Ground
Red - Stoplight Switch
Black - 12 Volt Constant Power
Blue - Brake Feed to Trailer Brakes
First, make sure the ground wire is attached to a clean, paint and rust-free chassis ground. Next, connect the circuit testers alligator clip to the ground and check the black 12-volt wire going into the... view full answer...
I spoke with my contact at Diversi-Tech regarding the problem you are having with the Self-Locking Adjustable Aluminum Ball Mount, # DTALBM7000. There are a couple of things that may be causing the slop you are experiencing in the ball mount.
First, if any sand or other find debris finds its way under those ball bearings on the top of the shank, that could cause them to not pop up all the way. What you can do is push them in and clean them with a small fine bristle brush to remove the... view full answer...
The OL or Overload error code is displayed when the brake circuit is drawing too much current, possibly caused by a short on the brake wire or a poor ground connection at the brake magnets.
I would recommend examining the brake output wire on your trailer. Look for a pinched brake output wire, or any worn or cracked insulation that would allow the copper conductor to short to the trailer frame or other metal. Also check the grounding points for the brake magnets to ensure that one lead... view full answer...
This is bound to happen when you tow a trailer with another trailer and is likely caused the cantilever forces on the trailer frame. But you can alleviate it somewhat by making sure the tongue weight on your second trailer is not too heavy or light. Typically tongue weight should be 10 to 15 percent of the gross trailer weight. A tongue weight that is too heavy would cause the rear end of the trailer to be more bouncy. Getting the trailer loaded properly will be the first thing you can... view full answer...
If you are using a trailer connector that hardwires to a set of blunt cut wires like the Pollak Metal 7-Pole, RV-Style Trailer Socket part # PK12703 then I recommend checking the ground terminal screw on the connector but if this is tight then I recommend just running a new ground wire to a bare metal surface on the frame to see if that fixes your issue. These trailer connectors don't ground though the mounting hardware if that is what you are asking. view full answer...
Check the pin for electric brakes on the 7-Way, vehicle side connector with no trailer attached, using a circuit tester like # PTW2993, to make sure a signal is getting sent to the plug. If you are looking at the plug, it should be the bottom right pin. Test it with someone pressing the brake pedal, and then when using the manual override.
If it is not showing a signal at the plug, then something is amiss between the brake controller and the plug, most likely a short or broken wire. You... view full answer...
There were a few bugs with the 2005-2006 factory brake controllers on Ford trucks. GM experienced the same situation when they introduced OEM controllers for the 2006 model year. A lot of those folks ended up replacing the problematic OEM units with aftermarket controllers. If you want to get the factory controller working, your best bet is to search the web and online forums or contact your dealer or Ford. We do not know much about those OEM units would not be able provide good trouble... view full answer...
The Edge Diesel Evolution CTS3 Performance Tuner # EP96TR will deliver the most power and torque gains in your 1996 Ford F-250 with 7.3L V8 Diesel. Increases can be as much as 180 additional horsepower and up to 440-ft-lbs of additional torque.
This tuner is legal in all 50 states. view full answer...
The four wires coming from your Tekonsha Envoy trailer brake controller will be for the following functions:
White for ground.
Black for 12V power.
Blue for brake output.
Red for stop light switch.
I was not able to confirm the wire colors and their function for the built-in harness in your 1993 Ford F-250. The only way to verify that you have made the correct connections is to simply test them for their function with a circuit tester like # PTW2993.
The fact that the controller is... view full answer...
If you have no power coming out of the blue wire from the brake controller, then you have a short on the blue wire somewhere or it may have been wired incorrectly. The blue wire on the Tekonsha Voyager # 39510 is the wire that carries the signal from your brake controller to the 7-Way on your 1996 Ford truck to activate your trailer brakes.
Testing the brake controller is fairly easy. Sever the blue brake output wire near the brake controller leaving enough room to reconnect it and then... view full answer...
Yes. Check Fuse #90 in your fuse block. It is a 25 Amp cartridge fuse for trailer tow battery charge located in the engine compartment. You can find the location in your owners manual if you need further location help. I've also attached a help article on wiring to help with further troubleshooting if needed.
If the fuse isn't blown, you will need to use a circuit tester like # PTW2993 to check for a short in the wire and replace the wire as needed with # 10-1-1 sold by the foot. view full answer...
From what you described, it sounds like you may have something wired incorrectly, or a bad ground somewhere.
First you will want to use something like the Draw-Tite Circuit Tester Kit # 40376 to double check the black wire you grounded. Typically the black wire will be the 12 volt power wire, so I highly suggest double checking it. Flipping the 12 volt wire with the ground wire, which is usually the white wire, may be causing the brakes to act weird.
This will also lead me to the next... view full answer...
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